THE ONE AND ONLY RED SUB
The Rolex Submariner is one of Rolex’s most iconic and recognisable models, and over the decades it has been produced in a wide range of styles, dial variations, and configurations. For vintage collectors and enthusiasts, the Submariner is a standout reference, offering a deep connection to Rolex’s history and evolution. There are numerous Submariner references, including the controversial no-date models, steel and gold variants, and a variety of dial designs; meaning there’s a version of the watch for almost every type of collector. One personal favourite of mine has always been the rare Serti dial Submariners, set with precious stones. In fact, I actually have one in stock while writing this blog. But enough about Serti dials; let’s move onto one of the most iconic Submariner references ever made, the 1680.
While some collectors consider other references, such as the COMEX-associated models like the 5514, to be equally iconic, the 1680 holds a unique place in Rolex history as the first Submariner with a date function. There are also a small number of documented 1680s associated with COMEX personnel or testing, though these are not generally regarded as official COMEX-issued production models. What the 1680 is best known for, however, is its distinctive red “SUBMARINER” text on the dial, which earned it the famous nickname: the “Red Submariner.”
The Rolex Submariner 1680 was produced from the late 1960s through to around 1980 and is known to have appeared in eight distinct dial variations, including later white-text models that carry significantly lower market values than their red-text counterparts. Each variation features subtle differences, from the positioning of the “600ft” and “200m” depth ratings to the shape of the 6s in “660ft.” These dial configurations are commonly referred to by collectors as MK1 through to MK8.
The rarest of the eight dial variations is the elusive Red Sub service dial. These dials retained the distinctive red “SUBMARINER” text but were produced after Rolex transitioned from tritium to Luminova luminous material during the late 1990s. As a result, these service replacement dials no longer featured the “Swiss – T < 25” marking found on earlier tritium dials. Instead, they were signed simply “SWISS” at the bottom of the dial, indicating the use of Luminova rather than tritium. What makes these dials particularly rare is that, during routine Rolex servicing at the time, damaged original Red Sub dials were typically replaced with later white-text service dials, removing the famous red lettering entirely. The red-text Luminova service dials are therefore believed to have been fitted only in very small numbers, likely between 1998 and 2000 depending on individual service centre inventory.
As for the reason behind the red text itself, nobody knows for certain, as Rolex never officially explained its purpose. However, many collectors believe the red “SUBMARINER” lettering was introduced to emphasise the addition of the date function to the Submariner line with the launch of the reference 1680.
In terms of materials, the reference 1680 Submariner was produced with aluminium bezel inserts long before Rolex introduced modern ceramic bezels. The watch was also manufactured primarily from 316L stainless steel, unlike modern Submariner models which are now made from 904L steel. The 316L steel used in the 1680 is a lower-carbon stainless steel, whereas 904L is a higher-grade, more corrosion-resistant alloy.
Inside the 40mm steel case is the calibre 1575 movement, one of Rolex’s most widely used automatic movements of the era. The 1575 appeared across a variety of Rolex models, including 36mm Datejust references and GMT-Master models from the same period. A common point of confusion surrounding the calibre 1575 is that many examples are stamped “1570” on the movement bridge, leading people to believe they contain a calibre 1570. In reality, the 1575 is essentially a calibre 1570 base movement fitted with an additional date mechanism. As a result, if a Rolex features a movement stamped “1570” but also has a date function, it is in fact a calibre 1575. A small but interesting quirk from vintage Rolex production.
Ultimately, the Rolex Submariner 1680 remains one of the most collectable vintage Rolex sports watches ever produced. From its famous red dial variations and reliable calibre 1575 movement, every detail contributes to the character that collectors continue to admire today.
More than just the first Submariner to feature a date function, the 1680 remains a reference that enthusiasts and collectors continue to appreciate decades later.